Editing Turbocharging (section)

==Your Options==

If you're after more power for your [[R31]] Skyline and naturally aspirated just isn't cutting it, the decision to go turbo is a simple one.
You have 3 choices if you want to go turbo:

*'''1:''' Keep your old engine and turbocharge it
*'''2:''' Get a manufactured turbo engine 
*'''3:''' Engine swap

Obviously the first option is going to be cheaper (as long as you're prepared to do the labour yourself) but the second option is usually safer.
Properly done, the conversion is even better than a manufactured turbo engine.



'''To do it yourself you will need the following:'''

*'''Exhaust manifold from turbo engine:'''  get one from a wrecked VL turbo or have one made up

*'''Turbo itself:''' Garrett T03 was a stock unit, accept this as a minimum

*'''Turbo injectors:''' Approx $98 from your local spare parts store. VLT injectors are brown.

[[File:Vltinjector.jpg|center]]

*'''VL Turbo [[ECU]]:''' You NEED this to run the turbo injectors, they use a different pulsewidth to the NA engine injectors

*'''Intake pipes:''' From turbo to intake manifold, stories circulate how the NA plastic ones tend to explode under boost, metal ones are needed

*'''Dump pipe from turbo to catalytic converter:''' You'll probably want a bigger exhaust system as well

'''Other assorted bits,'''

*'''Banjo bolts:''' Banjo bolts are like normal bolts but they are actually hollow so the fluid passes through them (See further down the page)

*'''Gaskets:''' One between the turbo and manifold, one between manifold and block, one between the turbo and dump pipe etc.. These are available at a good price through [http://www.gcg.com.au/ GCG Turbocharging].

*'''Oil and water lines to run to turbo:''' These are essential to your new turbo to prevent it exploding!
[[File:VLTWaterLines.jpg|640px|center]]

*'''Knock sensor:''' Detonation can be a problem if there is too much boost or not enough octane in the fuel.  This wires up to the VL turbo engine computer

*Relay: To wire the fuel pump to work
Also there's a small black bent piece of metal that is needed to use for one of the oil lines.

'''OPTIONAL'''

* Blow off valve
* Intercooler
* Turbo engine oil pump (it was bigger on the turbo motor)
* Turbo timer

If you're building an [[RB30ET]] and use a VL series 1 engine block, you need to put a T-piece in the oil pressure sender hole in the block and use one of those for the turbo oil feed line.
The VLT [[ECU]]'s will plug straight in once the relay has been added to run the fuel pump.
When it comes to changing the manifold, you are best to take it to an exhaust place and get them to remove the studs, because ''some will break''. Expect to replace all studs (12) at a cost of around $40 for all 12.
For the hose, use silicon hose. Take your cooler piping/crossover pipe to autobarn and they will cut you the pieces of silicone hose that you will need. Costs about $8/cm.
For the oil lines, go to [http://www.pirtek.com.au/ Pirtek] or similar, so they can actually look at the turbo and give you the right fittings.

Armed with that gear, the right tools and decent mechanical skills you're away.
Keep in mind the turbo engine had a compression ratio of 7.8:1 (from 9.0:1 of the NA engine) so be careful, higher compression ratio means you can't run as high boost without detonation.
If you leave the compression at 9.0:1 DON'T run over 7psi of boost without an intercooler or detonation will result.
The turbo engine has a different [[camshaft]] for 5° more duration and 5° more lift (gives more exhaust to the turbo and lets more intake in), the NA one has better midrange torque and less lag.
You will need to swap the timing belts and spark plugs as well, a small but worthwhile effort.

*Visit [http://home.iprimus.com.au/chris_white82/ Chris White]'s website for more info.