Editing Crank Angle Sensor (section)

==CAS Removal==
Removing the distributor is not necessary when replacing a CAS unless the bearing is busted. Please note that although these pictures are taken with the distributor removed, all work done is possible whilst it is still in the car, and was indeed done once the CAS had been harvested from the donor used in these pictures.

===Tools Required===
* Subway Cookie
* Glass of Coke
* Meaty Phillips head
* Flat Head
* 8mm Socket on ratchet.
* Small Electronics screwdriver (not pictured)
* Telescopic Magnet (optional, I dropped a few screws and had to fish them out from around the power steer lines)
[[File:CASRemoval1.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

===Procedure===
First up, remove the distributor cap and rotor button with a screw driver and an 8mm socket. Having the car at TDC is not necessary, just aim it so the bolt holding the Rotor Button is easily accessible.
[[File:CASRemoval2.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

Next up remove the inspection plate, the two screws holding it on are a little bit weak, so if a Phillips head is looking like its going to round out, switch over to a flat head to crack it.
[[File:CASRemoval3.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

If you are just doing this as a minor troubleshooting method, or don't have a new CAS and are just going to use a second hand one then before you proceed, blast the buggery out of the CAS wheel and sensor with some contact cleaner. Don't use anything else, this stuff is a million times better than Brakleen or WD40.
[[File:CASRemoval4.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

Now, about the only difficult part. You now need to undo the screw in the center of the spindle. Odds are it will be as tight as a ducks butthole, so be really careful not to strip it, because it will be quite hard to remove otherwise.
[[File:CASRemoval5.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

Now remove the wheel, be careful with it, however do remember that both the spindle and the wheel have a flat edge so they will locate back to their position correctly when you reassemble it, and that if you drop the wheel, make sure the markings are on the outside (there are numbers stamped on the top side)
[[File:CASRemoval6.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

Now remove the two screws topside on either side of the plug.
[[File:CASRemoval7.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

Now for hard part #2. Getting that dick of a black brittle plastic thing off. Your best hope is that you break it in two pieces not 4 or 4 million like I did. (if anyone knows how to remove it without breaking it, hit me up!)
[[File:CASRemoval8.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

Ok, now remove the 3 long screws and the inner spindle.
[[File:CASRemoval9.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

And bam, she's out!
[[File:CASRemoval10.jpg|640px|center|link=]]

Now put your new CAS in, (if the bearing is naffed, you will have to have it replaced, basically if the inside of the distributor around the CAS is covered in red dust, it's probably got a buggered bearing.)

To install the CAS, reverse the procedure, once tested, smash the buggery out of the old CAS with a hammer and thank Nissan and Mitsubishi Electronics Co for blessing us with such a strong easy to get to and vital unit.

This is what a buggered bearing will end up looking like.
[[File:CASRemoval11.jpg|640px|center|link=]]