Editing Timing belt (section)

===Other Tips===

[[Image:Cambelt on.jpg|400px]]

Clean everything as it is exposed, and before/after it comes off.  Carby/Brake cleaner and a brush is very good.  Have lots of rag available.  

Definitely change the cam and crank seals if you can.  They are most likely 20 years old, as hard as rock, and no longer qualify as seals.  The crank seal is pretty hard to access, because you've got to get the timing belt sprocket off first, which will require some controlled force with some pry bars.

The timing belt doesn't need much tension, but it probably needs more than the tensioning spring provides (20 year old spring?), if you were to lock the tensioner in place where the spring pushes it to, you could probably take the belt off by hand, so use a bit of judgement.  If you can half twist the main run, you're probably in the region.

The price for a Nissan tensioner is ridiculous, I got a Japanese NSK tensioner '''13070-42L00''' (almost identical, except better spring retainer) for $27, retail is $45.  Gates timing belts are as good as anything, have the right timing marks, and can be found for around $30 retail (although for some inexplicable reason I used a Nissan belt which was twice the price).  The cam and crank seals are the same, I got some from Daymans, '''1304216V00''' $25, $29 retail.

The new water pump probably won't come with studs, so you use two nuts locked against each other to get the studs out of the old water pump.  A bit of Loctite to retain the studs in the new water pump wouldn't go astray.


'''Contributors:''' Jacek, prestagea