Editing HICAS - Removal (section)

==Down To Business==

===Tools Required===
Nothing too fancy, 1/2" drive socket set, ring spanners, long breaker bar (a must!) and a chunky flat head screwdriver.
If required a set of bullnose pliers for handbrake cable clips and a 10mm flare nut spanner for brake lines can be handy.
The car will need to be put up on chassis stands

===Subframe Removal===
There are a few ways to go about this, but it is possible to remove the subframe on its own with the diff and trailing arms staying supported on jack stands. This is the quickest way to go about it, as the rear brakes, handbrake, tailshaft and driveshafts can stay connected.
When you remove the subframe, there is a large washer on each chassis pin. Remove this, cut off the rubber moulding, clean up, paint and refit.

===Bush Removal===
Remove the centre of the bush using a coping saw, or hack it out with a drill. Once this is removed, carefully cut through the outer shell of the bush with a hacksaw. Once you are through, the shell can be popped out with a screwdriver. Install your new bushes

===PS Pump and Reservoir===
Two options here, keep your import pump and reservoir, or fit an aus spec PS pump and res.
Import pump - this is a two chamber pump, The front is for your steering rack, rear for hicas. You can remove the vanes from the rear pump by taking the rear casing off the pump. The vanes (10 little steel squares) will just drop out.Remove the rear banjo bolt, you can turn it into a plug by filling with solder, then cut a short length of 3/4" copper pipe to replace the banjo fitting, The rear chamber has a bypass valve so blocking it shouldn't cause any issues. You could also just weld up the threaded fitting on the pump to seal it.
Import reservoir - this has two return lines, plug one with a 3/8" radiator stopper or similar rubber bung.

Aus pump - to bolt to an RB20 you need the aus pump bracket. The two lower mounts bolt on but you will need to add a spacer at the top between the bracket and block, use a few M10 washers or similar. Exhaust manifold yokes work as well. The aus pump uses a 3 rib belt while the import is 4. A 3 rib belt will be fine on the 4 rib harmonic balancer. You need a belt 855 or 860 long (3PK855 etc)
Aus reservoir - bolts straight up to the strut tower.
Note: the pump supply hose is a different size between import and aus, so you need to use aus pump + res, or import pump + res, not a combination.

===Steering Rack===
The easiest thing to do here is keep your import KYB hicas rack. It has a quick ratio at 2.5 turns lock to lock (Aus is 3.25). R32/33 rack can be used but will require custom lines. The import rack will also accept R32 tie rods if you wish to do the S13 coilover conversion.
Import rack mod - easy. On the rear of the rack body there is a valve with four lines going into it. Two lines go towards the back of the car, and one pressure line from the hicas solenoid, and a return to the reservoir. Disconnect these and seal the ports to stop leaks and dirt getting in. Automotive power steering threads are unique and its not possible to buy plugs, so make your own out of the discarded lines. Cut the end off leaving about an inch of steel line sticking out, flatten it in a vice and fold it on itself to seal, done (PIC)

===Actuators, Lines and Solenoid Valve===
The actuators at the rear, their brackets and all the hydraulic lines that run forward to the steering rack can be removed. The supply line from the pump (rear chamber), the hicas solenoid valve/controller and the return lines from this unit and the rack can go. You will be left with a single high pressure line from the pump to the rack, and a single return to the reservoir. Once the rear lines and actuators are out, reinstall the rear end.