Editing Fuel Pump Upgrade

Here is a guide for upgrading your stock fuel pump and wiring to fit a Bosch 040 item. This mod is recommended to anyone who is running a turbo setup on an Australian model, or anyone who has reached the limits of the stock pump on an imported model. I will break this down into two parts. Installation of the pump, and installation of the relay and wiring. It is possible to do the pump without the wiring, but if you want to get the most out of the modification, upgrading the wiring is advisable.

Note: You may also use this guide when it comes to replacing the standard OEM fuel pump, with a stock aftermarket pump ~ the procedures involved are ostensibly the same, without the need to upgrade wiring. See the 'From the Forum' section at the bottom of this page for more pointers on stock fuel pump replacement.



[[Image:fuelpump002.jpg]]

==FUEL PUMP==

Stock fuel pump will reach its limits at about 170rwkw. If you want to extract more out of your setup, you need to find a way to bump up the fuel rail pressure and the rate of delivery. As the picture shows, the 040 is a much larger pump. It’s one of the largest pumps you can fit in-tank. Here's how to do it:

Parts needed: 
* screw drivers
* sharp razor knife
* metal saw
* 2.5” hose clamp (x3)
* new fuel pump o-ring (part no: 17342-01A00)
* Bosch 040 fuel pump

==PUMP REMOVAL==

1. Open boot, lift up carpet and either remove, or fold down front seats and fold carpet into the cabin and out of the way. 

2. De-pressurise the fuel system: start the car, then find the connector for the fuel pump loom in the top right corner of the boot and disconnect. The car will splutter then the engine will die. Turn the starter a couple of times and make sure that all fuel has left the lines. Note: It may be a prudent safety measure at this point, to disconnect battery negative terminal to remove the possibility of any accidental sparks while the fuel tank is open.

3. Undo the 4 screws on the pump cover in the boot, and remove plate.

4. Unscrew the hose clamps on the fuel lines and push them off the fittings. Some fuel may come out, but not much. (If you don’t do step 2, then expect the amount of fuel to be considerably more).

5. Undo 4 screws on the fuel pump top plate.

[[Image:Fuelpump_tank.JPG]]

6. Carefully lift up the fuel pump assembly out of the tank, you will need to angle it at one point to allow the ‘float assembly’ to come out through the hole. Don’t force it, it will all come out quite easily given the right angle.

7. Take the whole assembly over to a work bench, and tip it upside down.

8. Remove the float assembly, there is a single screw in the plastic bracket near the top of the arm, undo this and slide the bracket off the fuel pump assembly, lay the float and arm to one side out of the way. Be careful with this sucker, if you bend or break it you won’t be happy. 

[[Image:Fuelpump.JPG]]

9. Undo the hose clamps on the rubber length joined to the top of the fuel pump. Remove the metal band that goes around the fuel pump itself. Now carefully, but firmly, pull the fuel pump upwards and out of the rubber boot and overall assembly. Undo the wiring connectors on top of the pump, and put the old pump in the cupboard/bin/backyard.

==040 INSTALLATION==

1.  The 040 is quite a bit larger in diameter and wont just slide into the stock rubber boot. The rubber boot is there to stop vibration of the pump against other metal parts, and also to generally hold it in place – so it is a necessary part and must be kept. So, the solution is: remove the plastic pins holding the rubber boot to the metal assembly, and take the boot out. Now slit it from top to bottom, into two halves. Put the two halves back in their intended position, and replace the plastic pins.

2. The second necessary mod is to the bracket itself. It won’t expand enough to allow the pump to go in, so with the metal saw, cut the metal band that acts as a basket round the assembly – just one slit will do, enough to allow the whole assembly to expand to accommodate the pump.

3. Place the short length of rubber hose onto the fuel feed on top of the 040. Insert the 040 in between the two rubber halves and push up as high as possible. The top of the fitting on the 040 should meet the fuel fitting in the top of the bracket. It has to go up this high to avoid the pump hitting on the bottom of the tank come installation time.(1)

4. Place a hose clamp around the top and bottom of the rubber halves to hold the pump tightly. Place another clamp around the outside of the metal basket to hold the assembly tight against the rubber halves/fuel pump.

5. Renew the hose clamps on the fuel line. Grab a beer.

==UPGRADE OF WIRING==

Upgrading the wiring is necessary to ensure you have maximum fuel pressure in the rail. Due to inefficiencies of the stock wiring, the pump can be receiving as little as 10V. By installing a relay, we can ensure the pump receives a healthy 13.8V at all times, thus working the pump to its maximum potential. (Note: I have used 8GA wiring to supply power to the pump, this is overkill, but I found that it worked well when it came to sealing the wires to the pump assembly. You can chose not to use this setup, but this is what worked for me.) 

Parts needed (all available from jaycar):
- 50cm length of 8GA wire (red)
- 50cm length of 8GA wire (black)
- FuseHolder x 1
- 5AG 30AMP Fuse x 2
- 60amp Horn Relay x 1 (Nice big terminals to suit the 8GA cable and its spade connectors)
- Red/Black Large Eye Terminals for 8GA x 1
- Yellow 5.3mm Insulated Eye Terminal x 1
- Yellow Large Insulated Spades x 1
- Blue 6.4mm Insulated Spades x 1
- rubber grommets, ID 6mm, OD 9.5mm
- soldering iron
- electrical tape
- wire strippers
- 10mm drill bit and power drill

1. Right, first step is to disconnect the battery, as we don’t need any sparks getting involved when there is fuel in the equation.

2. Next step is to run the 8GA to the pump. Also the most complicated step. There is no provision on the top plate of the assembly to run larger wires through. You will see the stock wiring is run through the tops of 4 plastic ‘hats’. What we are going to do, is cut away two of those plastic hats, leaving two neat holes in the top of the bracket to pass the wire through.

3. Following the original power and ground wires from the pump, you can see that the 1st and 3rd ‘hats’ need to go. Using the sharp knife, cut these away from the others, and using a screw driver, pry them off. Don’t worry about damaging them, they’re going in the bin – so dig in. What you will see is two neat holes. They are ‘just’ large enough to run 8GA through – which is great, however, we must seal the wires off to make sure no petrol escapes the tank – and it will.

4. Using the power drill, drill out these holes to 10mm. insert the grommets through the holes. Pass the black and red 8GA through the grommets. 


[[Image:fuelpump011.jpg]]

5. Using the large eye terminals, place those over the fuel pump terminals and screw down. Solder all connections. Run the 8GA out through the top cover. Reinstall pump.

[[Image:fuelpump006.jpg]]

6. Now we’re ready to hook up the relay. There are numbers on the relay that relate to what each connection is. I have put in brackets which wire needs to go to which number

7. Reconnect the factory loom at the connection in the boot. Now, looking at the wires that run between the connector and the fuel pump, you need to find the white with purple stripe wire. This is +ve power for the coil (86). Then, you need to find the thick black wire (85), this is ground for the coil. IMPORTANT. With this black wire, it is a shielded wire, meaning there is a wire running within a wire – strip back the outer wire and cut it away as it is not needed so don't leave any of it exposed – we’re interested in the inner wire; this is the wire that must be connected to (85). 

8. (30) is the connection direct from your battery - insert your fuse holder and fuse in-line with this wire. Finally, (87) is the red 8GA that runs to the fuel pump +ve. 

9. Last thing, the black 8GA wire must now be grounded to the chassis. Find a good solid spot to ground it, sand back any paint to bare metal and screw it down tight. A good ground is as important as a good power supply. Using a multimeter between the +ve 8GA on the fuel pump, and this black 8GA you should read the same voltage here as what is read at the battery itself. 

10. Turn the key to accessories. It should prime the pump for 5-10 seconds, then stop. If it doesn't prime at all, make sure that the outer wire of the shielded wire isn't grounding to anything, and isn't touching the connector on the end of the inner wire. If it is constantly priming and doesn't stop, that means you have grounded the outer wire instead of the inner wire. Beyond this.....

11. Grab another beer cos you’re done!

[[Image:fuelpump013.jpg]]

- '''SMOKEY'''

==FUEL PUMP SEAL==

The fuel pump seal will start to expand as soon as you remove the fuel pump cradle. The petrol vapour in the air causes it to do this. You will struggle to get the seal back in as it will be too large. To prevent this, put the seal straight in the freezer after removing the cradle to prevent it expanding. Alternatively, you can leave the seal out in the sun to try to shrink it. New seals are also available from Nissan.



==Comment 1==

That is exactly how I have had mine done for years now and it has never missed a beat.  The first time I fitted the fuel pump, I used stock wiring and the pump barely turned over.

The only issue I had with mine was the positioning of the pump height wise in the bottom of the tank.  Using a ruler I measured from the bottom of the tank to the top of the tank on the flange where the pump/sender bracket bolts to.

Then I measured from the underside of the mounting flange on the pump bracket and positioned the bottom the pump 10-15mm from the bottom of the tank. this has seen me get stuff all fuel surge at 1/4 of a tank.

I used to have the pump about 20mm or so from the bottom and got bad surge with anything less then 1/2 a tank.

Anything closer than 10mm can see the pump suck an 'air pocket' so to speak.

- '''Devious Jet'''

==Comment 2==

Fix to the fuel leak. Anyone who is doing the 040 pump install and following the tech. info guide I would recommend to use these glands not the grommets.  (IP68 Nickle Plated Copper Cable Glands from Jaycar)

- '''R31_Ute'''

[[Image:Fuelpump grommets.jpg]]

P.S it is the smallest size of those glands - 3 to 6.5mm. And you need to drill a bigger hole, 12 or 13mm I think. And they sit very close together which makes it hard to get them done up, but it can be done (y).

Anyone who runs those other rubber grommets, it WILL leak when you have a full tank. But the leaked fuel evaporates quite quickly so it will be hard to tell unless like the ute you have nothing covering the tank up.

- '''Smity42'''


==From the Forum==

(1) The piece of hose from the pump to the carrier pipe, should be the submersible type rubber fuel hose for in-tank usage ~ it's no biggy, but eventually the standard type hose may crack/split in that environment, and you'll end up with low fuel pressure at the injector rail/fuel regulator (in-tank pressure leak)


Be sure you're prepared to replace the fuel pump feed/return hoses between pump cover spouts & car...if they're anything like mine were, they'll go to pieces/split in the process of removing them, and leak badly when under pressure.


If replacing the stock OEM fuel pump with commonly available aftermarket pumps, you will find reference to 'Type 1' & 'Type 2' pump assemblies. The only difference between the pumps is whether or not they have the 'pulsator damper' (FPD.. fuel pulse damper); elsewise they have identical specifications ~ as far as Nissan is concerned, the ausdel R31 models all had the 'Type 2' setup with FPD (which makes sense really...the output spout from the pump is offset, and you don't need to bend the pump carrier output pipe to line things up, which is what you need to do with a Type 1 no FPD pump). The FPD was only included to reduce cabin noise ~ I haven't noticed any additional noise after fitting a no FPD Type 1 pump.


When replacing the stock OEM pump with an aftermarket unit, you will invariably face the following wiring issue -- the aftermarket pumps are usually terminated with spade type terminals (and you get a pigtail to suit, typically with some connector attached you can't use), whereas the OEM wiring terminates with crimped eyelets, which are attached to threaded post terminals on the pump with M4 nuts/washers. To workaround this, some aftermarket pumps have wide spade terminals with a hole drilled in them ~ the hole is nearly M4 so you only need open it up a tiny bit, and you can attach the existing wiring eyelet to the spade terminal using a M4 screw/nut/washer...this is what I did. If however the aftermarket pump has slimmer blade terminals, it's best to cut the eyelets off the existing wiring, and crimp on appropriate female spade terminals.

 


[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Electrical]]