Editing Wheel studs -Replacing

[[category:Brakes and Wheels]]

The whole process should only take about 30-60mins.. maybe even less if you know what you're doing. Its a fairly easy job.
If you are wanting to do this, it's probably a good idea to replace the [[:category:brakes|brake]] pads as well while you're at it.

First of all, jack the car up on the wheel you want to change, chock the other wheels, and take off the handbrake.
(important that you do, you'll see why later).

Remove the wheel.
Here you can see the stud which is too short to fit the nut on anymore.

[[Image:Snapped_stud.jpg]]

Start removing the caliper.. Pretty easy to do.
Use a 17mm and I think 15mm spanner pulling the opposite way, to loosen, and then remove the top and the bottom retaining bolts.

[[Image:Removing_caliper.jpg]]

Pull the caliper off the disc, and pull to one side, being careful not to split the brake line.
IF your handbrake is on, the caliper won't come off .
Depending on the condition of your pads, might need a hammer to bash the caliper a bit to get it off.


Use the 17mm spanner to remove the caliper retainer, which is held on by two bolts behind (circled in red where they are behind).
Actually, not sure whether its called a caliper retainer either..

[[Image:Caliper_retainer.jpg]]

[[Image:Caliper_retainer_off.jpg]]

Now you should just be able to remove the disc by pulling forward as it just sits on the top of the hub... Pull off and replace as necessary with nice DBA vented discs

You'll notice in the photo I've already bashed out the stud (because i could) , anyhow, ignore that for now..

Now you'll need to remove the axle retainer bolts (x4).
Notice the nice holes in the actual hub there?
They are there for a good reason.
Rotate the hub until the holes line up with 2x of the bolts.
Get a 14mm socket on a socket extender, insert it through the hole and undo the bolts that you can reach through the 2x holes.

[[Image:Axle_bolts.jpg]]

Rotate the axle another 90 degrees and undo the other two.

[[Image:Hub_removal.jpg]]

With the axle nuts off, you will be able to pull the whole axle out.
I was able to do that just by jiggling it a bit and putting my weight behind the whole thing - came out pretty easy.
It should just pop out eventually and you can pull it forward as shown.
Some say you have to stick the wheel back on with the nuts, and pull it to pop the axel out.. but I didn't need to do that.
You might get a bit of diff fluid come out, but thats ok.. just make sure you just don't get dirt, grit or other stuff in there.

[[Image:Axle_removal.jpg]]

This is how you can get to the wheel bearings in there as well if you need to replace them.


In the photo below you can see the replacement studs.
These cost me $3.50 EACH from Recpo ([[Nissan]] might have them too).. and they also have the right nut on the end (1.25mm).
The brass might be stronger too in the long run. So the studs themselves cost bugger all.

[[Image:Replacement_studs.jpg]]

Holding the axle (or pull it out if its easier.. but its all oily) bash the stud out the other end of the hub with a big hammer.
It should come out fairly easily and just chink to the ground.
I did it before I'd popped the axle out so if you had a firm base it might be easier, but its up to you.

Get your new shiney stud and bash it in from behind with the hammer, making very loud metallic noises and annoying the whole street (this is joy!)

Repeat for each stud you want to replace.. best to replace all 4, but in my case the others were still really good condition so I left them.

The photo below shows the end result once you have your new shiney studs in place.
You may notice they are a couple of mm smaller than the factory, (this may be intentional due to increased strength) but they still allowed the nuts to go on full lock once the wheel was back on.

[[Image:Studs_replaced.jpg]]

Getting the axle back in place can be a bit fiddly I found as you're wriggling it into the centre of the diff and matching up in there.
I found that I needed to push down slightly on the axle to get it in the right position, but eventually it slid back in. Put back on axle nuts, etc.

Put your disc back on, shove your [[:category:brakes|brakes]] back on (reverse process of removing)..
stick your wheel back on (notice how supremely easily the nuts glide onto the studs now) and ALL DONE!

[[Image:WSFinished.jpg]]

Take it easy when you first go for a drive, just in case you've stuffed the [[:category:brakes|brakes]] or something...
Make sure the diff isn't making any strange grinding noises (might have misaligned the axle)


'''Compiled by'''

predator666