GTR Resistor Pack - Installing: Difference between revisions
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for reference, this diagram shows what you've now done. what it was in the top bit, and what it is now. | for reference, this diagram shows what you've now done. what it was in the top bit, and what it is now. | ||
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'''Pablo Rodriguez''' | '''Pablo Rodriguez''' |
Latest revision as of 07:44, 1 September 2024
Wiring GTR Resistor Pack into RB20/25 loom:
What You'll Need: - GTR Resistor pack - GTR injector plugs (tho you can shave the top center locating lug off the injectors if you want... wont make a difference to the way they work, or how the rb20 ones stay on there. - 1 meter of 7 core trailer wire. something like Narva part number 5873-30TC. you can buy it from Burson's in meter lengths, and possibly Repco, Autobarn etc. - 50cm of 2 core cable. dont use speaker cable you tightasses. - solder - insulation tape - heat shrink - side cutters - wire strippers - soldering iron - razor blade/stanley knife - multimeter will be helpful. you'll only need the continuity setting (the one that goes *beep* when you touch the test leads together ;) )
so you wanna run GTR injectors on your RB20/25 right, well here's a bit of a guide as to what you should do.
first of all, locate the place where you want to mount the resistor pack. easiest and most common is on the front of the driver's side strut tower, where there's already a bolt hole where you can put it.
you need to locate the injector plugs on your harness. the RB20/25 DE/T harnesses have injector plugs 1, 2, and 3 on the main engine harness, and plugs 4, 5, and 6 on a sub harness.
the main power feed for the injectors from the ecu comes out in one single wire that is then branched off into 4, and then into 3. very similar to a set of 6-3-2-1 extractors. you need to locate inside the tape/conduit where the first join is, generally about 10cm back from where the last injector plug branches off the main harness, closest to the ECU, also very close to the igniter pack.
once you've peeled back the tape/conduit, you'll find a section about 5cm long, covered in tape, with 1 wire going in and 4 wires coming out. should look like this:
got that sorted? grab the injector sub-harness that has the other three injector plugs on it. pull the tape/conduit off again, same sort of location, about 10cm from the last injector plug, and locate another bunch of wires crimped together.
now, to make sure these are the right ones, pull out the multimeter, set it to continuity check, and make sure there's continuity between these two crimped sections, and one terminal on each injector plug. from memory, it's the one on the right as you're looking into the plug with the lump at the top. you can also check to make sure the insulation colours are the same by pulling back the rubber boot on each injector plug. the wires you want have the same colour on every injector plug. the other ones are all different.
what i want you to do now is cut the crimped section out of the equation, on the main engine harness ONLY. on the sub-harness, cut only 2 of the 3 wires coming out on the injector side.
grab that meter length of 7-core, take 5cm of the black sheath off, and then strip 1cm off each wire inside it. both ends. i used the red wire (cos red means power :P ) first, solder it to the single wire coming directly from the ecu for injector power. if you're using heatshrink, make sure you put that on first. if not, tape it up.
grab another 4 of the wires coming from the 7-core, and solder them to the 4 wires headed for the injector plugs, same with heatshrink, or tape. do it.
get the 2 core cable, join it to the remaining 2 wires on the 7-core. solder, heatshrink, tape, etc.
run the 2 core to the other 2 wires going to the last remaining wires for the last 2 injectors. cut it off to length, solder them together, heatshrink, tape, etc.
make sure you tape up the loom again, throw some conduit around it if you feel so led.
now, with the loom in place, run the 7-core around the back of the intake plenum, etc, to where you've already mounted the resistor pack.
all that needs doing is to join that end to the resistor pack, taking note of only 1 wire. that RED wire (cos red is power and all :P ) gets hooked up to the 1 wire coming out of the resistor pack that is a different colour. all the rest don't matter where they go.
tidy up your shit, and then your done.
for reference, this diagram shows what you've now done. what it was in the top bit, and what it is now.
Pablo Rodriguez