R33 NA Brakes
Old vs New[edit]
This is where we're starting from. Stock import brakes are an uninspiring 274x22 compared with the 280x26 R33 GTS brakes.
New and old next to each other. Template:4Image
You can see the difference in diameter from the top, it's 6mm, but the biggest difference can be seen side on. Template:2Image
The old discs have a new thickness of 22mm, with a minimum thickness of 20mm so these are pretty much new. Template:2Image
Here are the '33 pads (left) next to the '31 pads. Still plenty of meat on the Metal Kings. Template:2Image
Removal & Installation[edit]
First up you undo the brake line with 12mm ring spanner. You can use one of those line clamps to stop the fluid running out, but I just let it run into a small bucket. I'm going to flush new fluid right through the system anyway so meh.
Then undo the 2 caliper locating bolts, they are both 19mm.
Make sure you replace these right for right and left for left (yes, they will fit on the wrong side). How to tell? The bleeder always goes at the top, so when you bleed them the air comes out of the system (air bubbles rise to the top).
With the caliper out of the way you can remove the old disc.
I'm lucky, mine came off easily, but if it is stuck on you can try giving it a bash from behind with a SOFT hammer, or failing that, screw some bolts into the jacking bolt holes and jack it off.
Time for coffee and a little light reading.
Back to work. The R31 brake line banjo fitting has a small locating pin that fits in to a small hole in the caliper on an import. Aus-Del lines are different. The R33 caliper uses 2 pegs either side of the steel tube part of the banjo. This didn't need any modification and the R31 banjo bolted straight on. Template:4Image
Before you put the new discs on, clean all the greasy preservative crud off the outside. You'll still get plenty of smoke for the first few brake applications as the grease on the inside burns off.
Time to fit up the new calipers. My calipers came with the R33 bolts. They are shorter than the R31 ones so don't use them.
Pull out the pads to make the job a little easier. It was about now that I found out the new pads were the wrong size. Dammit!
Undo the top caliper bolt (14mm) and pivot the caliper out. Template:2Image
Slip in the (old) pads and bolt it back up again. You may need to push the pistons back to clear the pads if you are putting in new ones. Then put the wheels on.
On another note, wheel nuts are used for holding the wheel on, not for taking the weight of your car. That job is done by the hub. If your wheels have a larger hub diameter (like mine) you will need to invest in some hub rings like these. They take up the gap between the hub and the wheel and centre the wheel on the hub. Template:2Image
Here are the brakes all together showing the wheel clearance.
Plenty of clearance on my 16 inchers, a 15 inch wheel would fit over them easily and I think maybe a 14 inch too. There is room to bang a 14mm ring spanner between the caliper and rim.
Time for a bleed.
You will need to start with the new calipers to fill them with fluid, then start as usual with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest (yes you have to bleed the front calipers twice). If you get any fluid on your paint (it is an efficient paint stripper) or else where use this stuff to get it off, do not wipe it.
Good old H2O (water for the scientifically challenged).
Now the all important, where to put the sticker?
Tool box of course, but here is a lesson for advertisers, Toolboxes usually come in red or blue. Having red and blue stickers loses a bit of the impact
After a bit of a bedding in session there was quite a bit of smoke
All in all, a pretty easy job.
Part numbers[edit]
- RDA7691S RDA Slotted Rotors
- DB1308 Brake Pads
Contributors: Session, 31 Gun