GTS brake upgrade
Basic upgrade on an R31 begins with a set of struts, rotors and calipers from a GTS1, GTS2, or turbo import. Once you have the basics, you can upgrade from there.
If you want a cheap upgrade and already have GTS struts, you can use the calipers and discs off an R33 Non Turbo. These are Twin Spot calipers and 280mm 4 stud discs, they are 26mm thick.
Performing this upgrade gives better pedal feel than standard GTS brakes, and slightly better braking. The slight larger disc thickness (standard GTS discs are 274mm x 22mm) gives better heat dissipation. All up it costs around $160 for calipers and discs. You will also need brake lines to suit, the lines off an R30 Skyline or an early Bluebird fit perfectly, plus they are cheap. Of course 4 piston alloy calipers would be the best but it depends on how much money you have. One other advantage of this brake upgrade is it fits behind a standard 15 inch Ti rim.
RB74 to suit R32 GTS-t front calipers $180/set New DBA slotted front rotors to suit R32 GTS-t $154/each
The rotors can be ordered blank (IE. no holes drilled for the studs) for an extra $30! Race brakes can drill the new rotors (or standard R32 rotors) to 4 stud to suit the R31's for $140 for both rotors.
GT-R brakes can be used, but make sure you have plenty of room inside your wheels if you want to do this.
How to do a GTS brake upgrade[edit]
Loosen wheel nuts and jack the car up. Make sure the car is well supported.
Remove the wheels.
Unbolt the caliper and the clips which hold the brake line. There is one clip on the strut, and one on the body of the car. Undo the two bottom strut bolts. (I could only get the camera in to take a photo of one of the bolts, the other one is hiding around the other side)
Remove nuts from strut towers.
Remove struts. We used a 'bar bell' bar from a weight set to get some leverage to help the strut assembly come out - check the picture for how to position the bar for ease of strut removal. (Use the same method for replacing the struts)
Remove strut tops, locking washer, top spring support and bumper stop.
Compress the springs. Undo top shock absorber nut. This nut was 19mm, but some are 17mm or 14mm.
Put the spring onto the new strut. Replace bumper stop, top spring support, locking washer and strut top. (My strut tops have had the hole welded up, and have been painted in 'lively lavender' to match the motor)
The hole in the spring support must line up with the stub axle.
Replace the strut and do up bottom nuts.
Put the 3 strut top nuts on, but only do them up finger tight. These will be tightened later on when the car is back on the ground.
Install hubs and bearings. (Refer to Nissan manual in regards to tightening the hub nut.) Put split pin in position. Replace little gold cover thing (I don't know what it's called) Note that the little cover may not fit under your current wheels, if this is the case, use the original one.
Mount caliper with one bolt to take the weight off the brake line.
Change brake line. If you are upgrading to GT-R calipers, you will need a custom brake line.
Replace brake line clips.
Undo the bolt holding the caliper, and install new pads. (Refer to Nissan manual in regards to replacing pads)
Replace rotor. Do up caliper bolts. It may pay off at this stage to check that the caliper bolts are the correct length. Put two wheel nuts on, and check that the rotor can move. If not, exchange the bolts for shorter ones, or pack it out with a couple of washers.
Bleed brakes. (Refer to Nissan manual for brake bleeding procedure)
Replace wheels.
Lower car, and tighten wheel nuts and strut tower nuts.
Bed in brakes according to manufacturers instructions.
Compiled by
SKY031