Turbocharging

Your Options[edit]

If you're after more power for your R31 Skyline and naturally aspirated just isn't cutting it, the decision to go turbo is a simple one. You have 3 choices if you want to go turbo:

1: Keep your old engine and turbocharge it
2: Get a manufactured turbo engine
3: Engine swap

Obviously the first option is going to be cheaper (as long as you're prepared to do the labour yourself) but the second option is usually safer. Properly done, the conversion is even better than a manufactured turbo engine.

To do it yourself you will need the following:

Exhaust manifold from turbo engine: get one from a wrecked VL turbo or have one made up

Turbo itself: Garrett T03 was a stock unit, accept this as a minimum

Turbo injectors: Approx $98 from your local spare parts store. VLT injectors are brown.

VL Turbo ECU: You NEED this to run the turbo injectors, they use a different pulsewidth to the NA engine injectors

Intake pipes: From turbo to intake manifold, stories circulate how the NA plastic ones tend to explode under boost, metal ones are needed

Dump pipe from turbo to catalytic converter: You'll probably want a bigger exhaust system as well

Other assorted bits,

Banjo bolts: Banjo bolts are like normal bolts but they are actually hollow so the fluid passes through them (See further down the page)

Gaskets: One between the turbo and manifold, one between manifold and block, one between the turbo and dump pipe etc.. These are available at a good price through GCG Turbocharging.

Oil and water lines to run to turbo: These are essential to your new turbo to prevent it exploding!

File:VLTWaterLines.jpg

Knock sensor: Detonation can be a problem if there is too much boost or not enough octane in the fuel. This wires up to the VL turbo engine computer

Relay: To wire the fuel pump to work

Also there's a small black bent piece of metal that is needed to use for one of the oil lines.

OPTIONAL

Blow off valve
Intercooler
Turbo engine oil pump (it was bigger on the turbo motor)
Turbo timer

If you're building an RB30ET and use a VL series 1 engine block, you need to put a T-piece in the oil pressure sender hole in the block and use one of those for the turbo oil feed line. The VLT ECU's will plug straight in once the relay has been added to run the fuel pump. When it comes to changing the manifold, you are best to take it to an exhaust place and get them to remove the studs, because some will break. Expect to replace all studs (12) at a cost of around $40 for all 12. For the hose, use silicon hose. Take your cooler piping/crossover pipe to autobarn and they will cut you the pieces of silicone hose that you will need. Costs about $8/cm. For the oil lines, go to Pirtek or similar, so they can actually look at the turbo and give you the right fittings.

Armed with that gear, the right tools and decent mechanical skills you're away. Keep in mind the turbo engine had a compression ratio of 7.8:1 (from 9.0:1 of the NA engine) so be careful, higher compression ratio means you can't run as high boost without detonation. If you leave the compression at 9.0:1 DON'T run over 7psi of boost without an intercooler or detonation will result. The turbo engine has a different camshaft for 5° more duration and 5° more lift (gives more exhaust to the turbo and lets more intake in), the NA one has better midrange torque and less lag. You will need to swap the timing belts and spark plugs as well, a small but worthwhile effort.

Visit Chris White's website for more info.

Engine Swap[edit]

For a complete VL Turbo (RB30ET) engine swap you will need the following:

RB30ET complete engine Original RB30E engine for parts leeching (mainly the rocker cover - who wants Holden on a Nissan engine!) RB30ET ECU (without this the entire crusade is useless!) The swap is a fairly simple one, the engines being almost identical. You will have to run the knock sensor wire back to the ECU as well as change the pin for the fuel pump (pin 22). The VLs used 2 fuel pumps both outside the tank; one for low pumping, another for high volume pumping. The R31 has 1 fuel pump inside the tank that can vary it's speed. There are numerous explanations on how to wire up the fuel pump, some being quite complicated. The mechanic who set mine up however 'simply swapped the pin' on the VL turbo ECU and it's worked perfectly.

Note that after the engine upgrade is done, you will need bigger brakes and an engineers certificate in order to change your registration to show correct details. Different states have different requirements however so check first. Note also insurance will probably be unavailable through most companies due to a modified vehicle. (Just Car Insurance will insure almost anyone driving anything, but be prepared to pay for it!)

Banjo Bolts, Oil + Water lines[edit]

Here's some info for banjo bolts and lines, when converting to turbo

Banjo bolt sizes are:

m14x1.5 for water and

m12x1.25 for oil

A bit of background info:

14 is the top of the bolt size and the other measurement is the thread.

The m14 is a standard hydraulic size and can be purchased from enzed or piretek.

The m12 is not a standard size and can be purchased from Nissan or, just buy a bolt with those specifications and get it made into a banjo... this costs $5 at Pirtek

You also need copper washers, 2 for each eye bolt attachment.

Refer to pic below, left is the home made banjo, right is the washers, m14 from Enzed, and the original Nissan m12

File:Banjo.JPG

Also here's one of my lines, they're all there except for water return, the water feed is a custom.It has been serving me well so far... that metal twisty one to get on was extremely difficult and if doing it again would get custom lines made up.

File:Lines.JPG

Water return howto: a picture tells a thousand words

File:Turbo2.JPG

Other Pictures[edit]

Here are some other pictures of things you will need to turbo charge your n/a r31... so you guys dont have to think... hopefully it will result in more people doing it :P

File:Bottom.JPG File:Intake.JPG File:Turbo.JPG File:Drain.JPG File:Tape.JPG File:Tee.JPG File:Hose2.JPG File:Gaskets.JPG File:Gaskets2.JPG File:Hose.JPG File:90deg.JPG

Ok, explanation time

From the left, you have, bottom or lowerpipe that goes from turbo dump to cat.

Next is the intake bit that goes at the front of the turbo

Then the crossover

Here we have a stock T3 with oil and water lines on it, a dump pipe attached, a manifold attached and an actuator

Now this is the oil drain block fitting

You'll need this tape to put on the thread so it doesn't leak

Here's a t-piece and the next photo is where it goes... its for water return

Gaskets and more gaskets

Mics hoses, don't forget lots of hose clamps, these are for water return and for back breather to intake :D

90deg bit for oil drain

I got all the parts at pirtek or enzed

Connections To Block[edit]

Oil feed is the braided hose in the middle. Oil drain is the bottom fitting with no hose and blue cap. Water feed is the rubber hose to the right. The water return line I plumbed into the hose that runs into the plenum from the throttle body. The only bolt size I know is the oil return is a 3/4 inch tapered BSP thread (note it is 3/4" internal diameter and 1" diameter on the outside of the threaded section if you measure it) - David (Paraphrased)

File:Turbolines.jpg

Contributors[edit]

Chris White,Grizzlor, Mrman, SKY031, V-Spec, David, Mag, ST1LO