Pod filter - Installation
This is the first modification that most people perform.
It is a simple, quick and cheap mod to perform on the RB30E, CA20E or any engine.
Installing a pod filter will allow your car to breathe, without the restrictions it suffers with the air box.
A more efficient intake of air, ensures that the fuel is able to ignite properly.
Laws on pod filters vary between states. Oiled filters are not legal for road use in most states. Oiled filters are not recommended, due to their ability to foul the AFM.
Most people opt for a $20-$30 paper element pod filter, available at their local auto shop. These are fine!
If you want to keep the warm air from the engine away from the pod filter, you can make a heat shield.
RB30E[edit]
- Tools required
Phillips head and a flat head screw driver.
- Parts required
- Pod Airfilter: cost- anywhere from $20.00 to $200.00+ from performance parts, autobarn
- 3 O clamps: cost- cheap, from: hardware store, autobarn
- Polished stainless steel pipe, approx 3 inches in diameter -obviously the diameter of the Pod airfilter fitment:
cost- anywhere from $50.00+ from: performance parts stores, exhaust fitters etc
- Rubber adapter: cost- $20.00 from: autobarn
- AFM adapter: cost- $20.00 from: performance parts, autobarn
- Metal brace: cost- cheap, from: hardware stores
- 4 bolts and nuts: (for the AFM adapter)
The AFM adapter looks like this
VN Commodores have metal pod adapters stock on them. Go to your local self-serve wreckers and grab the metal airbox adapter, or buy one new from Holden. Part number 92041786 about $5. It's a lot better than buying a plastic one, which WILL warp.
This is the VN airbox adapter:
You can also use the VL intake pipe which runs between the throttle body and AFM. Be sure to get the lead clips and rubber sock from a VL as well
Ok, so I've got all the gear, now what?[edit]
Firstly, remove the stock intake system. There are several screws holding the air filter box in, they can be quite difficult to remove. The O clamps holding each section together just need to be loosend and then pulled apart. All you will need to retain from the stock air intake system is the AFM. Be careful with the AFM, it is a fairly delicate component. Now you should have only the main pipe of the intake system which feeds into the throttle body.
Into this, fit the AFM and affix it with one of the original O clamps, or a new one.
The AFM adapter then bolts onto the AFM, and the rubber adapter onto the adapter, fasten with an O clamp.
Now fit the pipe into the rubber adapter, fasten with another O clamp.
The pod airfilter then fits over the pipe, with the hook of the metal brace fitting under the airfilter's O clamp. The brace can be fitted then to one of the mounts from the stock airbox.
Tighten all the O clamps and check that everything is secure. Plug the AFM cable back in. Check everything again.
Start the engine up, and away you go.
CA20E[edit]
1: Parts
You'll need a pod (from ~$30, mine was 50 if I remember) Some filter oil (depending on whether you get an oiled pod or not) An AFM adapter plate A short 3" pipe (or whatever diameter the intake pipe is) Heavy duty wire and machine screws
AFM Adaptors These are available from Repco etc im both plastic and metal form. It is not advised to get the plastic one, as it may warp over time. VN Commodores come stock with metal pod adaptors. Go to your local wreckers and grab one!
2: Gutting The Intake
You need to first unscrew the black plastic tube that runs from the grille to the airbox. Then, take the top off the airbox as you would to access the filter. When the lid is right back it unclips. Then get your hand inside the box and take out the four screws holding the box to the AFM. NOTE: I am pretty sure these screws are reverse threaded, as when I took mine out, they all snapped half way out, and I spent three hours at the shops finding new screws with the same thread. Also dont drop shit into the AFM intake. once done, unscrew the airbox off its mounts on the body. You will need a long screwdriver.
3: The Pipes.
Now I haven't yet done this to mine, I will explain after. Simply unscrew the stock rubber pipe that goes from the AFM to above the radiator (easy enough to spot). Replace this pipe with your new, shorter pipe. It needs to be about 1/3 shorter than the original. Screw it all back up nice and solid.
4: Securing Your AFM
Screw the adapter plate directly to the AFM. Once done this, take one of the screws out a bit, and with some very tough wire (like fence wire only thicker) bend it in a loop around the screw, and run it down to the body, where you put another loop and screw it down. This acts as a harness to stop the thing from moving around. The AFM is heavy and you'll see what I mean by it moving around.
5: Final Steps
Juice the pod up with a little filter oil (buy the stuff and follow the directions (only if you have an oiled pod). Then slip it onto the adapter, tighten it, and off you go!
Now my setup is kinda different. You see, I haven't replaced the original pipe (yet). And I fitted the plate and everything, went to put the pod on and realised that the plastic wiper squirter resovior takes up my pod filter's space. As my squirters never worked from square one, and the tank had holes, i just ripped it out and put the pod there.
Hope this helps guys. Have fun!
Links[edit]
See also[edit]
Compiled by
kryz crayman Mad_Aussie